Swell

Viac o knihe

Embarking on a decade-long journey across the seas, the author explores both the thrill of surfing and the quest for personal identity. The narrative captures the essence of adventure, detailing encounters with diverse cultures and the challenges of life at sea. Through vivid storytelling, readers experience the transformative power of travel, the beauty of the ocean, and the introspective moments that shape the author's understanding of self. This memoir intertwines the love for surfing with profound life lessons learned along the way.